Having left the snow-capped Alps and sunny Austria behind us in part one, it was time to get the holiday started. A few miles ridden and more countries ticked off, and we were supping cool Croatian Pan beers on a sandy beach by mid-afternoon.
One of the best things about an overland touring holiday is the extremes of climate, scenery and cultures possible in such a short space of time.
Book as you go
A trip like this is accessible to anybody, and it doesn’t need to cost a fortune. We saved money by camping most of the time and usually just turned up on spec rather than pre-booking. It meant if we found somewhere special along the way that we’d prefer to stay, or if we fancied an extra day somewhere, we could please ourselves.
Austria to Croatia
After leaving our Austrian lakeside campsite, we would end up in Croatia by the afternoon. Just 172 miles to our destination, but it was the hottest ride so far. Lush green scenery, endless tunnels and raised motorway bridges took us into Slovenia, again without a border to let us know where we were. So far, we’d not had to show our passports anywhere since leaving home.
Already, it seemed like we’d been on the road for weeks. After munching a few motorway miles, we took a junction and headed onto the ‘A’ roads through Slovenia. We’d been told by a couple of bikers that it was beautiful, and yes, it was green and pleasant, but after the previous three days, it had a lot to live up to. Like Shania Twain, it didn’t impress us too much, although the roads themselves were actually great fun to ride.
This roadside cafe and some scenery were all we saw of our blast through Slovenia
Slovenia
We still weren’t quite sure if we’d got into Slovenia, though, and roadside Croatian Kuna exchange booths confused things further. We asked at a roadside restaurant over lunch…yep, we were in Slovenia. As it happened, the Croatian border was easy enough to spot when we got there, with passport control at both entry and exit. We finally had to get our passports out, although Border Control didn’t open them, and we were all wearing helmets anyway.
Getting hot!
The overhead temperature signs read 38.9 degrees and rose to almost 40 as we headed towards our overnight stop. We were melting in the heat.
We started to see and pass the first few foreign Vespa riders during the day. A sense of camaraderie, excitement and belonging shared with a cheerful wave.
We found Ali at the side of the road, minus husband Trevor…
Lone female
We spotted a lone female GTS rider gesturing frantically at us from the side of a motorway. It was Ali, a friend from England, whom we’d arranged to meet. Her other half, Trevor, had got lost somewhere. As Ali jumped on her scooter and took it off the stand, she managed to roll into a deep rain gulley running alongside the hard shoulder and dropped the scooter. Thankfully, she was fine, and the scooter only suffered superficial scratching, so we headed off towards our planned destination. Trevor managed to find us as we queued for the bridge toll; just as well because he had no cash or passport on him.
The comfiest pebbles in Croatia…
Best spot on the island
Our campsite for the night was on a pretty little island called KRK, accessible only by crossing on the new bridge or the old ferry. As with all the campsites we used, this one just waved us on and told us to pay afterwards, ‘Use as few pitches as you like and pay for what you use’.
The pitches were on gravel rather than grass, but luckily, our tents are easy to pitch without pegs. We were just glad to relax a little, especially as it was dirt cheap, had a pool bar and was right on the beach.
Shall we stay?
In fact, we were so relaxed that the next morning none of us wanted to leave, so we had a vote and all decided to stay an extra day, rather than ride down to Biograd for Thursday’s start of the rally. Croatia is so cheap: around £5 for a main-course meal in a fantastic restaurant overlooking the stunning Aegean Sea, and just over a pound for a bottle of beer.
We all spent another nice day chilling by the pool and swimming in the sea, which gave us a chance to do some laundry as well. Most campsites have a washing machine, which means you don’t have to take too many clothes (I must remember that next time).
Day eight, Biograd
The sound of a tent being packed away very noisily right next to my ear and the crunching of gravel woke us VERY early the next morning. The ginger member of our party wanted to get on the road before it got too hot. Reluctantly, we packed up and left the site before breakfast to try to avoid the worst of the heat.
Kevlar shorts
The overhead temp gauges were already showing 29.1, and our ‘safety’ gear was soon downgraded to factor 15 ‘Kevlar’ sun cream and shorts. Not something we’d usually do, but it would be more dangerous to try to ride in full riding kit in that intense heat.
The heat is on
Today was a very memorable riding day; try to imagine 160 miles of perfectly surfaced twisty roads with endless corners running alongside the bluest sea you’ve ever seen. That’s exactly what we got.
You’ll love the coast road from Rijeka to Biograd. Fantastic riding, although the heat got to us by the afternoon and we were forced to cool off in the Adriatic. I ended up soaking my T-shirt in the sea to help keep me cool when we started riding again; others went in as they were dressed, jeans, riding boots and body armour.
Scars of the past
Scarred buildings from the Civil War became more prominent the further down the coast we rode, a stark reminder of the recent violent past in such a beautiful place. War looks even uglier amongst such beauty.
Biograd
We eventually arrived in Biograd. We’d been seeing groups of scooters for the last 150 miles, excited Italians and Croatians waving frantically as we passed, swapping scooter club stickers like black market currency if we saw them in a layby. Arriving in Biograd and registering at the Vespa Village made us realise just how big this event actually is. Thousands of Vespa fans from around the world, scooters bearing legshield banners from as far away as New Zealand, Japan, Africa, Australia…it really is a worldwide event.
Vespa World Days
For the British contingent, Vespa World Days consisted of two days and nights of partying amongst like-minded Vespisti. With bands, discos, fireworks and a gala dinner for 3,000 people, there was something for everyone. During the gala dinner, some of our fellow Brits did us proud with a rousing rendition of God Save the Queen. In stereotypical good form, serviettes were used as makeshift handkerchief hats, drunken antics ensued, and even a late-night diplomatic incident occurred.
Ride out
The weekend event also included the biggest scooter ride out I’ve ever been involved with. It made the Isle of Wight look like a club ride out, massive isn’t the word. Countless scooters pass in a seemingly never-ending hazy procession. Some riders dressed in national costumes, club and country flags flying, excitable helmetless Italians, classic Vespas of all types – two-stroke smoke hanging in the scorching hot air. I’m not one for ride-outs myself, but I’m glad to have been a part of this one.
A marque with respect
A World Vespa event like this makes you realise just how important the marque is to so many people around the World. It’s more than just a form of transport, this is an iconic brand with a fantastic lifestyle and great camaraderie amongst fellow fans, no matter what age, sex or nationality.
A thirst for adventure
Although Vespa World Days was the reason we’d all ridden to Croatia, the rally itself was just a small part of a much bigger adventure and a destination to plan an exciting riding holiday around. Having two days tied to an apartment in the same place made me want to get back on the road again by Sunday morning. I was missing seeing new places, so it was nice to pack the scooter up again and head off towards Split for an overnight ferry to Italy and the final part of our trip.
If you missed part 1, click here.
