Our flat cap wearing stud muffin, Nick Prince talks us through his life in the saddle and the gentle art of stud removal.
As I was riding along the other weekend, full of aches and pains it dawned on me how amazing it was that a Lambretta engine (or any old scooter for that matter) actually held together. Especially when some engine casings are from the 50s and 60s, a bit like myself.
What have studs ever done for me?
It got me thinking about those small but vital parts which hold an engine together and this lead me to consider the unsung hero that is a stud. Studs are used to help hold the engine together, you find them around the edge of the engine casing and they also hold your barrel on, your exhaust on to the barrel and perform various other jobs around the place. They can also be tricky little blighters to remove and replace. I’ve started using a tool called a stud installer/installation tool. Despite the name the tool extracts and installs studs.
I have used the double nut idea, which is used on the start of this CasaCase video with success. However the new stud tool from BGM, which comes in three different sizes (see above) and which I must admit took me time to get use to works well. Especially now I’m more familiar with the tool, I have used it on the engine casing and cylinder studs for both removal and assembly.
With the cylinder studs, from my own experience and taking scooters to scooter dealers, I tend not to use copper slip when assembling the barrel and cylinder head, it’s tempting but in some cases it can damage the crankcasing.
It is handy when you put the stud in with the tool to torque the stud up to 18-20ft lbs. You can do a visual of the threads to make sure the same amount of thread on each stud is showing to check how far the stud has gone in.
Where the studs are on the crankcase I’ve used the tool to insert and remove studs but it’s too tight to use the tool with the crankcase in place, so you need to remove it if you’re using the tool. In the past I’ve managed to remove the studs using the two nut system, for example the little stud that holds the tail pipe on, without taking the crankcase cover off. Also I’ve used mole grips to nip the end of the stud on the crankcase – with caution not to scratch the crank case cover but both this and the two nut system can be a bit hit and miss and have an element of luck involved.
It is advisable to warm the casing prior to taking the stud out if possible to make removal easier and to avoid damaging it.
I’m still getting used to the BGM tool but it’s good quality and for £17.68 you get a set of three tools – M6, M7 and M8, which will cover most studs found on Lambretta and Vespa engines.
As you can see from the photo above it can be tricky to use the tool with the crankcase side in place. I’ve found that swapping the crankcase cover studs for the Allen key type is a good move, as you can use the allen key to tighten them or take them out. I got mine from the RobboSpeed stall on a rally last year.
Words and photos, Nick Prince
If you have any workshop tips or top tool recommendations feel free to get in touch at editorial@ScooterLab.UK